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itinerary

Jelutong breakfast crawl: 4 stops on foot

4 stops · 1.7km on foot

Jelutong starts serving early and stops early. Four stops along and just behind Jalan Jelutong, about 1.7km of walking end to end, and you can do the lot on foot without hurrying much. Nasi kandar, then wantan mee, then oyster porridge, then a griddled pancake at the wet market. Worth knowing before you set off: the first stop and the last one both stop serving at 10.30am, so this is an early morning whether you like it or not.

  1. 1

    Ali Ameir Nasi Kandar Banjir

    06:30 to 10:30

    Ali Ameir Nasi Kandar Banjir — signature dish
    Photo: Nabil Omar via Google Maps

    Ali Ameir Nasi Kandar Banjir does it the 1948 way, which means thin old-school gravies rather than a wall of side dishes, rice cooked with a herb mix, and okra as the only vegetable in sight. Ask for kuah banjir, and take the omelette and the onion chicken with it. Regulars queue before the shutters go up.

  2. 2

    Jelutong Sunshine Kopitiam

    07:00 to 12:00 · 455m from the last stop · shut Friday

    Jelutong Sunshine Kopitiam — signature dish
    Photo: Wong Han Pin via Google Maps

    Jelutong Sunshine Kopitiam has several stalls going at once, and Mr Ho's three-flavour wantan mee is the one people line up for: a single plate split across dark soy, sesame oil and Sichuan mala. Madam Tan's Hailam char runs from the back, and the hokkien mee corner is strong. Under RM 20 a head.

  3. 3

    Kedai Makanan Liang Seng (蠔干粥)

    06:45 to 14:30 · 537m from the last stop · shut Tuesday, Wednesday

    Kedai Makanan Liang Seng (蠔干粥) — signature dish
    Photo: JAMES FROG via Google Maps

    Finding it is half the job. Kedai Makanan Liang Seng (蠔干粥) sits under a low-cost flat on Lintang Slim, where the same family has boiled dried-oyster porridge over charcoal for generations, by some accounts a century of it. Add-ons run from shark meat to pork intestines, plus yew char koay.

  4. 4

    Taman Free School Market Pancake

    06:30 to 10:30 · 665m from the last stop

    Taman Free School Market Pancake — signature dish
    Photo: Chiefeater via Google Maps

    Taman Free School Market Pancake is Mr Goh and his wife, griddling ban chien kueh since 1968, wedged in among the morning trade. Crisp at the edge, chewy in the middle, heavy with crushed peanuts, and priced like the neighbourhood owns it. They finish by 10.30am and sometimes take a day off unannounced.

Saturday is the simplest day to do this. Friday costs you the wantan mee, Tuesday and Wednesday cost you the porridge, so those three are the ones to avoid. Be at the nasi kandar by seven at the latest. The pancake stall sits at the far end of the walk and shuts at 10.30am, so keep the two stops in the middle brief if you want all four in one morning.

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